BROWN SAUCE OF NORTHERN ITALY
Sugo di carne
This recipe may look frightening at first and the amount of meats and bones may seem ridiculous for such a small yield. Actually, the recipe practically cooks itself, and the result is so unique and exquisite in taste - and also so necessary in the preparation of many Northern Italian dishes - that we strongly recommend it. Of course it has nothing in common with any commercial products such as Bovril or Maggi.
5 ounces prosciutto fat or larding pork, ground
PREHEAT oven to 300 degrees F.
LINE bottom of roasting pan with prosciutto fat or larding pork. On top place the pork rind, beef rump or shank, veal muscle, beef and veal bones with marrow, mushrooms, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, cloves, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the black pepper
COOK over low heat, stirring occasionally. As soon as meat starts to brown add the wine and bouquet garni. Cook, stirring, until wine is almost evaporated. Remove from heat, sprinkle with flour, and stir well. Return to heat and cook, stirring constantly over very low heat for 1 minute.
ADD tomato pulp or canned tomatoes and mix well. Add boiling water to cover and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Simmer (do not boil) for 5 minutes. Scum will start to rise. Remove it with spoon or ladle until it ceases to accumulate
PLACE in oven, partially covered, so that steam may escape, and cook for 4 hours, being very careful that it barely simmers.
TAKE out of oven, remove beef, veal, and pork rind, and reserve for other uses. Strain liquid, discarding vegetables, bones, and bouquet garni, into a saucepan. Simmer until liquid is reduced to 1 1/2 quarts, removing fat from surface with spoon or ladle. Allow to cool.
PLACE juice in refrigerator, uncovered, until remaining fat has hardened on top and can be scraped off. Taste for seasoning, and, if flavor is weak, boil to reduce water content further and remove scum if it rises to surface. Meat Juice may be kept in refrigerator or freezer. If kept in the refrigerator, it must be removed and brought to a boil every 3 or 4 days before storing again.