RAVIOLI GENOVESE STYLE
Ravioli alla Genovese
The authors of this recipe ran a well-known restaurant (George's) in Rome some years ago. The recipe gives you some historical perspective on Italian cooking; use your own imagination for substitutions!
The first stage with this dish is to prepare the sauce.
250g (10 oz) flour
After the ingredients have been mixed together in the usual way the dough must be left to rest in a floured cloth for half an hour before it is rolled out.
The ravioli have a slightly different shape from the usual, and should be made as follows:
Peel the tomatoes if these are fresh (1 minute in boiling water first will help this); in any case remove seeds and liquid, and pass through a vegetable mill. Put the oil and the kidney fat in a pan, heat well, and add the pieces of shin of beef and sear them well, turning all the time. They should be a good golden brown all over. Add salt and pepper, and then the chopped onion, garlic, and rosemary. Fry for 3 minutes, taking care that the onion doesn't become dark. Add the wine, and reduce it completely
Add the tomatoes. Cover the pan and cook for 2 hours over a very low heat. Stir every now and then. If the sauce shows signs of becoming too thick add a little boiling water from time to time
At the end of the two hours take the meat out of the pan (part of this will be used for the stuffing) and pass the rest of the sauce through a strainer. Taste for pepper and salt, and season if necessary. Put on one side.
Put the oil into a pan. When it is hot add the onion and garlic and fry gently for a few minutes. Add the pieces of sausage meat, and when the fat of this has melted add the brains or sweetbreads, cut into small pieces. Finally add the borage, the beet, and the endive. Cook for a few minutes more.
Transfer the contents of the pan to a bowl. Add the eggs, 50g (2 oz) of the grated Parmesan, the curdled milk, the chopped shin of beef, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and use for stuffing the ravioli.
Cook the ravioli in abundant boiling salted water for 4 or 5 minutes. When you think that they have reached the proper point it is best to taste one to verify this. Lift them carefully out of the pan with a perforated ladle. Put one layer on a heated serving dish. Sprinkle with some grated Parmesan, a few small pats of butter, and some of the sauce, making sure that this is still warm.
Repeat the process until all the ravioli and the sauce have been used up, and dressed with cheese and butter.
Note: this is one of the classical Italian dishes, and possibly the best of all the ravioli recipes. Don't be deterred by the apparent complexity. All the processes are really quite simple, and there is no difficulty if they are done in the proper order. It is however very advisable to check carefully that you have all the ingredients ready before you start - you can't go popping down to the shops, half way through, for something that is missing.